This post is also available in: Italiano
One can count on the fingers of one hand the occasions when wearing a truly formal outfit is a must.
It may happen, for example, for an invitation to a royal event, a grand gala, the opera etc. But even the bride’s dad, who in between all the excitement, has to walk his daughter down the aisle…has to go there in impeccable dress.
These are occasions that do not happen every day (thankfully!), but when they do, there is little to joke about and be lighthearted about: mistakes are not allowed and everything must be perfect.
Here is a simple rescue guide, to achieve a formal outfit without hesitation.
To write this guide, I put together tradition and modern style in 7 easy points.
Ah…remember, though, that you are wearing a formal outfit, that is, you are wearing a tuxedo, you are definitely celebrating some happy event. So, after you’ve fine-tuned all the details I’m now listing, forget everything and focus on drinking, dancing and generally…having fun!
1. Don’t rent the tuxedo
That would be the worst way to start!
A rented tuxedo you will not be able to ask them to alter it to your size. At most they might shorten or lengthen the sleeves, but nothing more.
Invest in a classic tuxedo to your size-it will last you a long time, fit you perfectly, and probably after wearing it only two or three times you will have already saved the money you would have spent on rentals.
And don’t skimp on tailoring! This is a time when you need to look your absolute best. Get it tailored, don’t think twice!
2. Choose the right tie
A spear lapel tuxedo can be worn with either a tie or a bow tie.
A shawl lapel tuxedo, on the other hand, must be worn only with a bow tie.
In any case, the silk of the tie, jacket lapel, and tuxedo trim, I recommend is literally the same for everyone. So, color, texture and appearance of these silk details must match.
A bow tie to be worn with a tuxedo must always be of the loose type, that is, those in which the knot must be redone each time by hand. Strictly avoid perfectly symmetrical pre-knotted bow ties.
10 and praise to those who prefer Italian handmade ones! 🙂
3. The shirt
There are two basic types of formal shirt: concealed button-down (with covered buttons) and studded front (where buttons are replaced by metal studs).
Obviously, the shirt must be white and well-shaped, made of stiff structured fabric that will hold its shape.
Pleats on the bib are optional, while French cuffs are required.
For fans of the wing collar…it can go, but I prefer the classic Italian pointed collar.
4. Cover the belly
The waistband of the pants (and the belly, for those who have them) should always be covered by either a cummerbund or a vest.
By covering the folds in the shirt, which inevitably occur around the waist, the appearance will be clean and neat.
5. Leave the trouser belt at home
Whatever tuxedo model you choose, formal outfit means no belt.
A tuxedo pant should have hidden side adjusters, or buttons on the inside to attach suspenders.
If you are using suspenders, use black silk ones (to match the edges of the tuxedo) or white silk ones (to blend in with the shirt) and always wear them below the cummerbund or vest.
6. Shoes and socks
For shoes you have two options: patent leather pumps (like Opera loafers), or smooth-toed lace-ups (if they are not patent leather make sure they have some shine).
For socks, use thin-weave black-it is suitable for formal wear, especially if you will be using pumps, which have a low upper and expose part of the foot and ankle.
7. Other important accessories
The idea of tuxedos is to be as simple and uniform as possible. An excess of accessories in a moment can ruin everything.
All you need is a white pocket square handkerchief, folded flat, peeping out of your jacket pocket.
A simple wristwatch with a thin dial and leather strap, and if you are feeling dandy and are in the colder months, you can try wearing a very fine handcrafted silk scarf.
Thank you for reading this article.
See you next time and write in lots of people!
